Experiencing The Great Migration

Travel writer Greg Clayton shares his experience of the Great Migration of the Wilderbeest in Mara River, Kenya.

The zebra moved cautiously down the well-worn river cutting. Behind him a herd sniffed the air nervously, alert for danger. The male zebra reached the muddy water’s edge. He pawed the wet earth, lifting his nose to the wind.

And then, as if receiving a secret signal, he moved quickly forward, leaping into the slow drifting current and swam for the other side. As one, the herd followed, billowing dust into the blue sky.

Behind the herd of zebra, a massive formation of wildebeest and assorted wildlife poured down the cutting and plunged into the Mara river.

Now the fun really starts!

Before we return to the scene at the river bank, let’s look at why this phenomenon of nature happens every year around the same time. Of course, we’re talking about the fabled Great Migration of the Wildebeest – one of the world’s iconic spectacles and wonders of nature.

The Great Migration is really all about food and grazing land. The Wildebeest or Gnu traditionally give birth around February in the southern area of the Serengeti in Tanzania. With the arrival of the long rains, these southern grass plains are rapidly depleted of feed and so the animals are forced north in search of greener pastures … and so the Great Migration begins. It is estimated that initially a lead group of some 500,000 zebra is followed by a massive 1.8 million wildebeest with a trailing 100,000 plains game taking up the rear.

This vast caravan slowly heads north during March, April and May, towards the long grass plains and food supply found along the Serengeti’s western corridor. The final resting point is the Maasai Mara National Reserve of Kenya where the herd stops to rest and recuperate on the abundance of feed.

The final push and the most dramatic, involves the crossing of the Mara River, a scene that at times is beyond description. And, that brings us back to the introduction.

For those lucky enough to witness an actual crossing of the Mara River, you will be present at one of the most awesome displays of nature at its best and worst. In many cases, zebra tend to be the first to venture across this relatively narrow width of water, followed shortly after by the hordes of wildebeest anxious to reach the fertile grounds within sight.

A shallow crossing place is chosen allowing the majority of the herd to cross safely. The river is often deep and at times fast flowing making it difficult for the weaker and younger animals unable to cope with currents and the buffeting of larger bodies. Hundreds of animals are swept away to be snapped up by the massive Nile crocodiles that lie in wait. These huge creatures are up to 15 feet in length and along with hyenas, lions and other predators, create a situation whereby the crossing of the Mara River is both a magnificent spectacle as well as a scene of despair and death.

Sitting atop tree limbs and exposed rock faces overlooking the carnage, vultures, including packs of hyenas, mass in large numbers awaiting what will eventuate once the crossing has been completed. The smell of death permeates the air as bodies litter these banks and the herd presses on to relative safety on the far shore.

“For those lucky enough to witness an actual crossing of the Mara River, you will be present at one of the most awesome displays of nature at its best and worst.”

Once successfully across, some two million animals cover this immense savannah and grassland, continuing to be subject to predation from lions, leopards and hyenas as they fatten up after the long journey.

Between July and October, the wildebeest reside in the Maasai Mara, grazing on lush green grasses encouraged by earlier rains and the scene covers the savannah as far as the eye can see.

In October and November the herd, reacting to rains further south, begins the long return migration south with yet another perilous crossing of the Mara River and theensuing perils that accompany it. Arriving back on the Serengeti’s eastern plains around February the cycle is complete, calving commences and the beginnings of the next year’s migration are under way. Rather than see a crossing as a scene of death and destruction, one must realise this is merely nature’s way of removing the sick, the lame and the elderly who in most cases would not survive the round trip journey. It is estimated that at least 250,000 wildebeest die during the Great Migration. But, the next calving will produce another 500,000 animals who must take their chances as participants in this stunning spectacle of life.

Witnessing the Great Migration is of course subject to nature’s whims and it is not uncommon to miss a crossing entirely. One day, thousands make the crossing while on other days not even a solitary wildebeest chooses to cross over at all, preferring to stay for another day of grazing.

“It is not uncommon to witness a lioness with cubs pace gracefully past your game drive vehicle, barely giving you a second glance.”

Of course the Maasai Mara is not just about witnessing a crossing but its location within the Serengeti Plains make it an ideal location to spot and experience the many varieties of cat and wildlife that call this area home. It is not uncommon to witness a lioness with cubs pace gracefully past your game drive vehicle, barely giving you a second glance. Cheetahs laze in the shadow of one of the few shade trees on the plain and leopards rest high in tree tops with their latest catch hanging within reach.

The Masai Mara and the Great Migration make up one of any traveller’s most lasting and exhilarating journeys. The sights and sounds of this truly amazing area will last forever and those images of the wildlife you take will keep you engrossed for hours. See it before the spectacle is reduced even further!

Tips for Travelling to Kenya

Travel

The primary point of entry for Kenya is the capital city of Nairobi. Many airlines service the country however Emirates via Dubai and South African Airways via Johannesburg offer regular and reliable services. You must be in possession of a valid Passport with a minimum of six months prior to expiry. The primary point of entry for Kenya is the capital city of Nairobi. Many airlines service the country however Emirates via Dubai and South African Airways via Johannesburg offer regular and reliable services. You must be in possession of a valid Passport with a minimum of six months prior to expiry.

Visa

Travellers to Kenya will require a visa which may be available upon arrival, but you are strongly advised to obtain the visa prior to arrival to avoid any problems. Give yourself ample time as delays in issuance of visa can occur.

Health

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov), the following vaccinations are recommended for Kenya: hepatitis A, hepatitis B, meningococcal meningitis, rabies and typhoid, and boosters for tetanus, diphtheria, polio and measles. It is also advisable to be vaccinated against yellow fever. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov), the following vaccinations are recommended for Kenya: hepatitis A, hepatitis B, meningococcal meningitis, rabies and typhoid, and boosters for tetanus, diphtheria, polio and measles. It is also advisable to be vaccinated against yellow fever.

It is also highly suggested you take a basic medical kit with you to cover the more obvious potential medical situations – colds and flu, stomach disorders, cuts, bruises and abrasions.

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance when visiting remote areas of the world, including Kenya’s Game Parks etc. is absolutely essential. Ensure suitable cover is taken to ensure maximum coverage is available for medical treatment, hospital care and evacuation etc.

Greg Clayton

Greg Clayton has for 40+ years managed retail travel outlets, established a wholesale tour operation in Hawaii, escorted tours to exotic locations, writes travel journalism and even co-hosts his own Cruise & Travel Show on the Gold Coast.